Irish vodka is proving that it can hold its own against some of the best, writes Aoife Carrigy
If you think of vodka as basically being a clear and neutral distilled spirit, you’re not wrong. At its most basic, any alcoholic spirit made from water and ethyl alcohol from agricultural origin can be classified as vodka. It can be made from almost any source of fermentable sugars, distilled to a very high level of alcohol to remove impurities, then watered down to a more palatable ABV (at least 37.5pc under EU regulations).
Vodka can be made from grains like wheat or rye but also barley, oats, spelt, millet, sorghum and corn; starches like potatoes but also soybeans and rice; or sugar sources like sugar cane, sugar beet molasses, honey, maple sap, crystal sugar, whey and fruits like apples and grapes. Under EU regulations, vodka made from anything other than grains or potato must indicate the base ingredient on the label, as they do, for example, with Highbank Orchards Organic Kilkenny Apple Vodka (€70).
Some Irish vodka is made from dairy-based whey, as in Minke Irish Vodka from Clonakilty (€34), but most is grain or potato-based — and the latter is typically name-checked, as in Muff Irish Potato Vodka (€40) and Ballykeefe Potato Irish Vodka (€35), presumably for the marketing value of our unique relationship with the humble spud.
Until recently, the official US definition of vodka framed it as “neutral spirits distilled or treated after distillation with charcoal or other materials so as to be without distinctive character, aroma, taste or colour”. But even a quick blind tasting of a few premium vodkas disproves that idea.
These albeit subtle but distinctive differences in aroma, flavour, mouthfeel and finish can derive from the base ingredient used. According to Difford’s Guide for Discerning Drinkers, wheat-based vodka offers notes of subtle aniseed, pepper and lemon zest, compared to rye’s nutty sweetness and barley’s bready, brioche sweetness, while potato vodkas are creamy-textured and fuller-flavoured with vegetal notes.
Differences can also derive from the water used for dilution; from the materials used in filtration, notably charcoal from coconut shells or silver birch; and from how and where the base neutral spirit was re-distilled and rectified, including copper-pot stills, which build mouthfeel.
Earlier this year, one young pup of an Irish vodka snagged the title of best vodka in the world at the World Drinks Awards. It features today as our drink of the week alongside four more distinctive Irish vodkas that are worth sipping neat.
Drink of the week
i-Stil 38 Pot Still Vodka
i-Stil 38 Pot Still Vodka, 38pc, €32-35
Made mostly with Irish grains blended with international grain spirits to balance the boldness of the malted and unmalted Munster barley, this vodka is crisp while also soft and creamy. Expect clean aromas with subtle peppery notes and a soft, full-bodied mouthfeel with spicy character that builds but finishes light and delicate. A well-balanced pot-still sipper that won best Irish vodka at the World Drinks Awards before nailing the title of best vodka in the world. Dunnes Stores, Carry Out, Molloy’s, The Corkscrew, Drinkstore, Deveney’s, wineonline.ie, istil38.com
Assaranca Vodka
Assaranca Vodka, 41pc, €33-50
From Sliabh Liag Distillers, producers of An Dúlamán gin and Silkies whiskey, a fiery vodka infused with Donegal botanicals of rowan berries (in the pot) and gorse flowers (in the vapour basket). Think briny aromas of sea air and coastal flowers, with a distinctive coconut twist on the palate. Dirty martini? Dicey Reilly’s, Celtic Whiskey Shop, irishdrinkshop.com, sliabhliagdistillers.ie
Rebel City Distillery Series Citrus Vodka
Rebel City Distillery Series Citrus Vodka 39.6pc, €35 (50cl)
Flavoured with pomelo (think pink grapefruit meets lime), this is distinctively bright with zesty aromas, minty and herbal on the palate with a very fresh finish. Try chilled on the rocks, garnished with citrus wheels, mint sprigs and a soda splash. Soon to be rebranded under their gorgeous Maharani brand. rebelcitydistillery.com
Kalak Single Malt Vodka
Kalak Single Malt Vodka, 40pc, €44-50
Copper-pot distilled in West Cork from Irish malted barley, with aromas of agave piña, caramel and chocolate notes, and great balance on the fiery but soft-edged palate. Sip chilled, or try the smoky Peat Cask version in an Old-Fashioned. Ardkeen, Searsons, The Corkscrew, Drinkstore, Mitchell & Son, stationtostationwine.ie, irishmalts.com, originspirits.ie
Drumshanbo Sausage Tree Pure Irish Vodka
Sausage Tree Pure Irish Vodka, 43pc, €39-45
Made in Drumshanbo by the producers of the elegant Gunpowder Gin, this is slow-distilled with Irish grains and infused with botanicals (African sausage-tree fruit and Leitrim stinging nettles) chosen for their purifying properties. A clean nose leads to floral notes and a peppery herbal heat. Tesco, Drinkstore, Celtic Whiskey Shop, Mitchell & Son, O’Briens
