Koda opened in Deansgrange at the end of July, and the smart outdoor seating area is a good indication of what to expect inside. Owned by Brian Walsh and Paul Foley, the seasoned team behind Pigeon House and Caladh, it is a small but well executed operation. From Wednesday to Sunday, Koda operates as both a sit-down restaurant and a takeaway, with a Sunday brunch to round things off. The concept is simple: pizza and pasta, and judging by the packed room, they’ve certainly gauged that bit right.
The space itself is stylish but unfussy, a blend of exposed brick, reeded wood panelling, and wine bottles that give the place a grounded, unpretentious charm. Diners at the high counter enjoy an uninterrupted view of the wood-burning Stefano Ferrara pizza oven. Though small, Koda hums with natural energy – there’s no need for forced atmosphere here; the happy clinking of glasses and contented chatter fills the room naturally.
Koda’s menu is concise. Six starters provide a mix of vegetable, seafood, and meat-based dishes, and for mains the focus is divided between five pasta dishes and seven pizzas. The wine list is similarly succinct, focusing primarily on European wines, with a reasonable number of bottles below €40, and 11 options by the glass. We order a Vitese Nero d’Avola from Sicily (€37).
The meal begins on a high note with the courgette fritti (€12), which could easily have been the usual oil-soaked vegetable tempura knock-off, but isn’t. What arrives is a pile of thick courgette fingers, skin still on, holding their shape with some dignity. The batter avoids the common pitfall of becoming an oil sponge. Pair that with the spicy-sweet jalapeño jam that coat the fritti, the cooling tang of sour cream, the surprise hit of pickled peppers and onions layered in and you have a very nice dish indeed, that is easily enough for two people.
Our other starter, crab toast on brioche (€12), is again very generously sized. The brioche is the perfect vehicle – soft, buttery, but firm enough to support a mountain of crab, flecked with brown meat and spiked with lemon and dill. The fried capers, golden and salty, scattered across the top, add a savoury crunch.
The mains roll in, beginning with the fried gnocchi (€18). Now, I’ve had gnocchi recently that were closer to sliotars in size and density, but here they are light, pillowy and reasonably sized. That familiar brown butter nuttiness comes through in each bite, but what keeps it from veering into one-note territory is the occasional salty pop from crispy, fried capers. There are green olives in there too, adding a briny, savoury edge which really works, but just a few more olives wouldn’t go amiss.
The pizzas are a bit hit and miss. The margherita (€16), that classic measure of any pizza joint, arrives with less leoparding, the characteristic charring on the crust, than I would have expected. The crushed San Marzano tomatoes provide that distinctive hit of acidity, but the base itself feels a touch doughy, as though it has been whisked out of the oven a moment too soon. That said, a far finer looking example of the same pizza lands on the table beside us, a most joyful group of rosé-sipping girls living their best life, so perhaps we have just been unlucky.
The pizza toppings will be changing regularly, which is probably no bad thing. The combination of Parma ham and peaches, or pineapple and prosciutto, will have some rolling their eyes, and goat’s cheese with mozzarella, pear, caramelised onion, honey, candied pecan, and truffle oil would not be my choice.
For dessert, the tiramisu (€8) is served in a teacup. It lacks the punch of booze or coffee you expect from the dish and is skewed heavily towards sweetness rather than the dark, bitter edge a good tiramisu should have.
The real draw of Koda, aside from a few standout dishes, is its value. You could quite comfortably share a starter and pizza with a glass of wine and get away with a very affordable bill. While a few kitchen details – like oven temperature and the trend-heavy pizza toppings – could use tweaking, Koda shows all the signs of becoming a local favourite. It’s already drawing in the crowds, with its unpretentious, thoughtful food and pricing that doesn’t feel like a slap in the face. The place is buzzing, and there’s enough to keep you coming back.
Dinner for two with a bottle of wine was €103.
The verdict: A smart neighbourhood restaurant with smart neighbourhood prices.
Food provenance: Glenmar, La Rousse, Toonsbridge and Caterway.
Vegetarian options: Shiitake pappardelle with miso brown butter and pangrattato and gnocchi with garlic and herb butter, capers and olives.
Wheelchair access: Fully accessible with an accessible toilet.
Music: Unobtrusive dance music in the background.
