THE HOTEL
Billing itself as Dublin’s first luxury lifestyle hotel, The Leinster opened its doors in May. The 55-room hotel occupies the site of what was once one of Dublin’s most popular nightclubs, Howl at the Moon, which was gutted and rebuilt, although a few original features remain intact. The hotel is close to popular Merion Square in an area of the city known for its striking Georgian architecture. It is a 10-minute walk to St Stephen’s Green, Grafton Street and Trinity College.
THE CHECK-IN
My keys were waiting for me upon arrival and there were no other formalities to complete. I was only delayed moving up to my room because I enquired about the original Damian Hirst artwork, hanging in reception. The Wu Zetia piece is one of five he did in his Empress series, each featuring laminated Giclée prints on aluminium composite and screen printed with glitter.
When I looked closely enough, I could see the central theme that features in each of the set: a red-and-black butterfly arranged into a kaleidoscope-like pattern. The work set the tone as art is a theme throughout, with the hotel a showcase for around 300 curated pieces of originals from more than 80 different artists.
THE ROOM
My Superior room was a corner room that had three windows on two sides, one looking out onto busy Mount Street. The room was overlooked by the neighbouring buildings and offices, so the dressing gown came in handy!
The immediate impression was ‘eclectic’, a blending of the modern and the timeless. The cool contemporary twists included a cardinal-red sofa and chair and a lush black-and-white-spotted carpet, while a bygone but recent decade was represented by the classic wooden chest of drawers, a rotary dial phone and tasselled lampshades.
Other features included a Nespresso machine, Dyson hairdryer, a large pot plant and framed works by Irish artists.
A bar station was filled with bottles of premium spirits available for purchase – such as Azul Tequila for $175 – and amini-bar was stocked with batch cocktails, Château La Coste wines and alcohol-free beers.
There were eye-catching quirky features too, like a Ruark audio bluetooth speaker, Assouline travel books and a tube of adult goodies called ‘Couples Collection’ (no explanation needed).
The stylish bathroom, with its striking Midnight-blue wall tiles, hand-painted floor tiles and standalone bowl and copper taps, had a powerful rainfall shower, Brooks & Co toiletries and the standout feature: a Japanese-style Toto toilet, complete with vibrating heated seat and flushing jets.
The turndown service came with chocolate truffles on the pillows. The only slight negative is that corner rooms have a tiny ‘wardrobe’, which in my room was four hangers on a rail. The management say this is because of the room’s additional windows but that there are plans to rectify this.
THE FACILITIES
The highlight is the city’s first restaurant by chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, who has 18 award-winning restaurants in New York City and also one at The Connaught in London, along with a hatful of Michelin stars behind him.
It is located on the top floor, with an extensive bar and the option of outside seating. I spent three hours over a curated chef’s menu, expertly explained by ‘Eric’, the hotel’s Assistant General Manager, and exquisitely presented by a team under Head Chef, Ross Bryans.
The menu was stacked with a mouthwatering array of Irish favourites, often with a French, Southeast Asian or Indian Ocean flourish. It was a feast of exotic and richly intense creations and an explosion of delicate essences, flavourful foams and tangy herb-infused vinegars and oils that left the palette in a bewildered state of sensory flux.
Signature dishes included organic Irish salmon crispy sushi and egg toast, caviar, tuna tartare avocado with spicy radish, and wild turbot crusted with nuts and seeds and sweet and sour jus. There wine list was outstanding, and I was offered ‘fun cocktails’ such as The Ginger Margarita, a Jean-George twist on the spicy margarita, and The Passion Fruit, a summer-style alcohol-free cocktail.
A wine pairing came with every dish – and they were all delicious, with the personal highlights being a 2021 Saint-Aubin ‘En Vesveau’ by Domaine du Château Philippe le Hardi, a Burgundy white wine, and the Dreissigacker Vintage Riesling from Germany’s largest wine-growing region. Dessert was warm chocolate cake paired with Tahitian vanilla ice-cream.
The restaurant is open to non-guests who can also make use of a terrace bar.
The Collins Club is a basement speakeasy with a striking crimson bar, dimmed red lighting and barmen wearing white buttoned jackets. It felt like a homage to the decadent London underground nightclub scene of the 1920s – or perhaps, with its pianist playing a Baby Grand it was more Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca.
Its cocktail list features many created in the hotel’s own’ laboratory’, located in the basement. A small plates and bites menu is available.
The O’Dywer Suite is hired out for exclusive breakfast meetings, team lunches, dinners, and drinks receptions and overseen by a dedicated events team. The hotel has a luxury boutique gym and thermal suite.
THE VERDICT
The style is playfully modem, luxurious and stylish throughout. Room sizes are a little constrained by the spaces left after a virtual demolition and new build, although perfectly comfortable. Some original Georgian features live on, such as the wall behind the Collins Club bar.
The dining experience at Jean-Georges at The Leinster was just fabulous and the restaurant looks set to become one of Dublin’s ‘must dine at’ places. Although centrally located it is just far enough away from the main sites as to have a heighbourhood feel and feel very quiet.
THE DETAILS
7 Mount Street Lower, Dublin 2, DO2 WK33. Rooms start from €300 per night.
